American “soft power” may be failing, but the USD still reigns supreme. Consequently, an American in 2025 can experience top-class dining at affordable prices in Southeast Asia, where many European chefs run restaurants. Bangkok’s Cafe Lenzi is one such example.
If Anthony Bourdain was Italian, he might be Chef Stefano Merlo. Photos of a younger Stefano look uncannily similar to Bourdain—tall, lanky, with eyes both kind and mischievous. Chef Stefano’s restaurant specializes in Tuscan cuisine, and here, the highlight is meat. Stefano uses a wood-burning oven and charcoal in an open kitchen. The concept suits Stefano perfectly, who can be heard giving very specific instructions in Italian and handling some cooking himself. I recommend the set lunch. Don’t skip the butterfly-shaped tiramisu. Photos below.
© Matthew Mehdi Rafat (April 2025)
